Museo: Piazza Navona

From the Domitian Stadium to Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona is one of the most beautiful and famous squares in Rome, but did you know that it was once the site of a large Roman stadium? It was called the Stadium of Domitian and was built more than 1900 years ago, in 86 AD, to host running races and other games, much like the Greek Olympics! It could accommodate up to 30,000 people, an enormous number! After the fall of the Roman Empire, the stadium gradually fell into disuse. Over the centuries, buildings and churches were constructed over it, but the square still retains the long and slightly curved shape of the original stadium. In the 1600s, a significant Pope named Innocent X decided to embellish the area and turn it into an elegant square for his family, the Pamphilj. This is why today we can admire beautiful fountains, a church with a large dome, and a palace that overlooks the square. Today, Piazza Navona is bustling with life: there are street artists, jugglers, musicians, stalls, and ice cream shops. And if you want to discover what the stadium was like, you can also visit the underground areas!

The Fountain of the Four Rivers

Look at the center of the square! That gigantic fountain with the obelisk seemingly reaching the sky is the Fountain of the Four Rivers! It was created by a genius artist named Gian Lorenzo Bernini in 1651. The fountain represents the four most important rivers known at that time, one for each continent. Can you guess them? There’s the mighty Danube for Europe (the one with the horse), the mysterious Nile for Africa (with its head covered because its source was unknown back then), the exotic Ganges for Asia (the one with the long oar), and the distant Rio de la Plata for the Americas (which seems frightened, with its arms raised). Each river-giant is surrounded by plants and animals typical of its land: palm trees, lions, snakes, and even an armadillo! In the center of the fountain rises the Obelisk of Agonale, of Roman origin but inspired by Egyptian art. This majestic obelisk was erected during the imperial era and transferred here as a symbol of the universal power of the Church. The Obelisk of Agonale is today one of the thirteen ancient obelisks still present in Rome.

The Fountain of the Moor and the Fountain of Neptune

At the ends of Piazza Navona, there are two fountains that seem to tell stories of water and fantasy. To the south, we find the Fontana del Moro, built in the 1500s by an architect named Giacomo della Porta. However, it was the renowned artist Gian Lorenzo Bernini who gave it its most spectacular appearance. At the center of the fountain, there's a strong man called "the Moor," who grapples with a dolphin: from the mouth of the fish, a sparkling jet of water gushes, like a blade of light! Around the Moor, there are tritons with shells and decorations that seem to have emerged from a marine tale. Although the statues we see today are replicas—the originals are preserved in a museum—the fountain retains all its charm. On the other side of the square, towards the north, stands the Fontana del Nettuno. This too is the work of Giacomo della Porta, but for a long time, it was merely a large basin without statues. It was only completed in the 19th century when the statue of Neptune, the god of the sea, battling a gigantic octopus, was added to the center! Around him, marine figures move: seahorses, mermaids, cherubs, and dolphins. Even though these sculptures are more modern compared to the other fountains in the square, they blend perfectly into the landscape, creating a lively and imaginative scene that captivates both young and old. These two fountains, although different, seem to converse with each other from one end of the square to the other, bringing tales of the sea and adventures among the stones of Rome.

The Church of Sant'Agnese in Agone

Do you see that beautiful church with the curved façade and the large dome? It is the Church of Sant'Agnese in Agone, and it holds a touching story of a very brave young girl. A long time ago, when the Romans were not yet Christians, there lived a young girl named Agnes. She was a Christian at a time when being a Christian was forbidden. Right here, where the church stands today, there was once part of a stadium, and it is said that Agnes was brought here and martyred because she refused to renounce her faith. The church we see today was built in the 17th century, about 1300 years after Agnes's story. It has a very special shape: notice how the façade is all curved? This curve seems to embrace the square! It was designed by the famous architect Borromini. If you enter the church, you will discover colorful marbles, gilded stuccoes, and beautiful frescoes on the ceiling. In the underground crypt, you can see the exact spot where tradition says Agnes was miraculously saved: her hair suddenly grew, covering her like a magical dress!

The Grand Palaces of Piazza Navona

In Piazza Navona, one of the most beautiful squares in Rome, there are two truly special palaces: Palazzo Pamphilj and Palazzo Braschi. A long time ago, Giovanni Battista Pamphilj, who later became Pope Innocent X, decided to build a very large and beautiful home for his family: it is Palazzo Pamphilj. He enlisted two very talented architects, Girolamo Rainaldi and Francesco Borromini, to design it. Inside the palace, there is a very long and colorful hall, the Pamphilj Gallery, decorated with paintings that tell the adventures of the Roman hero Aeneas. The illustrations appear to move, like in an illustrated book full of magic! Right next door, there is another palace called Palazzo Braschi. It was built for Luigi Braschi Onesti, the nephew of Pope Pius VI, who wanted to live in an elegant home. The construction began in 1792, but it was halted for a while due to political issues. Fortunately, the work resumed, and the palace was completed. Today, Palazzo Braschi houses the Museum of Rome, a place full of interesting objects! There are paintings, statues, photographs, ancient clothes, and many stories to discover. It's like a journey through time, where each room tells something different about the city.

Pasquino

Just a few steps from Piazza Navona, hidden in a small square, resides a very special character: Pasquino, an ancient and damaged statue that has "spoken" for the Romans for centuries! It doesn't really speak, of course, but it became famous because the citizens of Rome would attach notes with ironic poems and jokes to its pedestal to mock the powerful, the rulers, or the Pope. When someone wanted to criticize high taxes or an unjust new law, they would write a funny poem and attach it to Pasquino overnight. These messages were called "pasquinades." Pasquino is not alone: scattered throughout Rome are five other "talking statues." One of these is Madama Lucrezia, a large female head located near Piazza Venezia. These statues served as the voice for those who couldn't speak freely, an intelligent and amusing way to express opinions when there was no freedom of press!